"You know what Greg, it's a cool, crisp morning, let's do something fun today. Let's go compete in the Red Bull South Africa Big wave Awards."
"Hmm...could be cool, where's the break?"
"Dungeons"
"Oh yeah I love to surf way out in the ocean in the middle of a seal colony and watch the great white shark cage diving boats line up around us!"
"Yeah, seals are cute."
"How big are the waves...around 30 feet?
"Sweet. That's so small, I'll just paddle into it, and hopefully catch some tubes."
Congrats Greg Long for winning the Billabong XXL Ride of the year award. Even though you might be insane.
Check out the nominees and winner here.
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